| Jacket Styles |
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| 3 Types of Tuxedo Styles: |
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Single Breasted a coat or jacket having one row of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric. |
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Double Breasted a coat or jacket having a very wide overlap in the front, usually two parallel rows of buttons. |
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Full Dress Tails a.k.a. tailcoat with long tails in back, usually does not actually button in front. Considered appropriate for events in the evening after 6 PM. |
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| 3 Types of Lapels: |
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Notch Lapel a notch is cut out between the collar and the lapel. |
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Peak Lapel the top of the lapel is peaked sharply upward and outward. |
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Shawl Collar there is no change from the lapel to the collar. The lapel is just a continuation of the collar. (Also known as a shawl lapel) |
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| 3 Types of Vents: |
- Center Vent Single is an opening in the lower part of a seam; a slit in the back of the garment. (Also Known as single vent)
- Side Vent is two openings in the lower part of a seam; Two slit’s in the back of the garment. (Also Known as double vented)
- Non Vented there are no openings in the back of the garment. (Also Known as vent-less)
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| 3 types of Pockets: |
- Double besom
- Hacking
- Convertible Flap
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| 3 Types of Jacket Fabric: |
- 100% tropical weight virgin Worcester wool this is the most common fabric on a black traditional tuxedo. (Also Known as Burlington 2 ply 80’s/20’s die lot less wool)
- High Twist Australian Yarn this is a premium fabric found on very high end garments. (Graded above Super 130’s)
- Micro Fiber is a light weight synthetic fabric usually used on white and ivory tuxedos.
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| 3 Types of Lapel & Button Facings: (Lapel, button, & Leg braid facings always match on the same tuxedo) |
- Satin a smooth strong, lustrous satin weave fabric made with silk or synthetic materials.
- Grosgrain a firm, tightly woven fabric with a heavy, pronounced, crosswise rib, usually made of crushed silk.( Found on Matteo Maas tuxedos)
- Self-Facing refers to the same fabric as the jacket, IE no facing.
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| 3 Miscellaneous Terms: |
- Self-top Collar the collar material is the same as the material on the coat.
- Gorge low gorge/high gorge relates to where the lapel starts and the collar ends. Avery low gorge is down in the middle of the chest.
- Button Stance Position where the coat first buttons on the chest usually defined as a normal, low or high button stance.
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| Shirt Collar Styles |
- Wing collar a style of collar with wing-like appendages at the neck.
- Lay down collar a regular fold over style collar found on most men's dress shirts.
- Banded collar stands straight up and does not fold over, it appears as a band around neck, usually worn with a button cover
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- Convertible front Shirt can be worn either with buttons or studs.
- Convertible Barrel Cuff a shirt cuff that either takes cufflink’s or has optional buttons.
- French cuffs a wide cuff that is folded back and fasted with a cufflink. (Retail Shirt)
- Shirt bosom is the part of the shirt that covers the chest.
- Piqué Birds eye fabric in white cotton or blend. Only correct fabric for shirt bosom, vest and tie when wearing an ultra formal ‘white tie’ full dress.
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| Neck Wear Options |
- Button Cover is a type of formal jewelry worn on the top button of a shirt instead of a bow tie.
- Band bow tie is a traditional bow tie with an adjustable band that wraps around the collar of the shirt and connects with a clasp.
- Ascot is a scarf or necktie knotted so that its broad ends are laid flat upon each other. Traditionally worn with a cutaway styles tuxedos.
- Euro & Four-in-hand tie is a type of cravat, knotted so that its broad ends are laid flat upon each other. Worn with a vest and almost any style tuxedo.
- Tie-To-Tie is a bow tie that you tie yourself. (Sometimes called a self tie)
- Cravat is a scarf or band of fabric worn around the neck.
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